If you re travelling around Andhra Pradesh during Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan), look out for the clay ovens called unlabeled map of united states bhattis. You ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem inside purpose-built structures. Come nightfall, the serious business of eating begins. The taste is worth the wait. In September 2010, this love of the dish was taken a step further, being patented as Hyderabadi haleem ; prohibited to be served under that name unless it meets the strict quality guidelines.
Park HOTEL $$$ (%2754488; www.theparkhotels.com; unlabeled map of united states Beach Rd; s/d from 7000/9000; ais) Vizag s only five-star is very elegant, very high-design. Even if you don t stay here, visit Bamboo Bay, its beachfront restaurant, for a drink. Checkout is noon.
The bus station has a train reservation booth (h8am-noon & 5-7pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun). For Hyderabad, an overnight train goes daily to Kacheguda (7604; sleeper/3AC/2AC 240/650/870, unlabeled map of united states 10 hours). Overnight train 8564 runs to Visakhapatnam (sleeper/3AC/2AC 340/940/1300, 20 hours), stopping at Vijayawada. The daily Udyan Express (6530) heads to Mumbai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 350/950/1300, 21 hours).
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