toll booth operator the Park hotel, out the back are tables in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge i

the Park hotel, out the back are tables in the sand on the edge of the beach where you can indulge in delicious spicy fried fish ( 120) and tiger prawns ( 160). It s also a great spot for a cold beer with ocean views and a big outdoor screen. It s an overwhelmingly male clientele, but isn t seedy like some Indian bars.

Vijayawada is on the main Chenna Kolkata and Chennai Delhi railway lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) runs to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily except toll booth operator Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada Chennai route. Trains galore run to Hyderabad toll booth operator (sleeper/3AC/2AC 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.

Hotel Mamata Lodge HOTEL $ (%2225873; 1st fl, 170 TP Area; s/d/tr & q 200/300/400) A friendly, spick-and-span cheapie. Some of the sheets are stained, but they re tucked toll booth operator in tight and lovingly patched with white squares. Avoid the downstairs toll booth operator lodge of the same name.