interstate traffic reports In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderaba

In 1724 the Hyderabad viceroy, interstate traffic reports Asaf Jah, took advantage of waning Mughal power and declared Hyderabad an independent state with himself as leader. The dynasty of the nizams of Hyderabad began, and the traditions of Islam flourished. Hyderabad became a focus for the arts, culture and learning, and the centre of Islamic India. Its abundance of rare gems and minerals the world-famous Kohinoor diamond is from here furnished the nizams with enormous wealth. (William Dalrymple s White Mughals is a fascinating portrait of the city at this time.)

Hyderabad, City of Pearls, is like an elderly, impeccably dressed princess whose time has past. Once the seat of the powerful and wealthy Qutb Shahi and Asaf Jahi dynasties, the city has seen centuries of great prosperity and innovation. Today, interstate traffic reports the Old City is full of centuries-old Islamic monuments and even older charms. In fact, the whole city is laced with architectural gems: ornate tombs, mosques, palaces and homes from the past are tucked away, faded and enchanting, in corners all over town. Keep your eyes open.

Hotel Mamata Lodge HOTEL $ (%2225873; 1st fl, 170 TP Area; s/d/tr & q 200/300/400) A friendly, spick-and-span cheapie. Some of the sheets are stained, but they re tucked in tight and lovingly patched with white squares. Avoid the downstairs lodge of the same name.