considered amalgamation with Pakistan and then opted for sovereignty. Tensions between Muslims and Hindus increased, however, and military intervention saw Hyderabad join the Indian union in 1948. Sights Charminar MONUMENT (Four Towers; Map p900; Indian/foreigner 5/100; h9am-5.30pm) Hyderabad s principal landmark was built by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah in 1591 to commemorate the founding of Hyderabad and the end of epidemics caused by Golconda s water shortage. The dramatic four-column, 56m high and 30m wide structure has four arches facing the cardinal points. Minarets sit atop each column. The 2nd floor, home to Hyderabad s oldest mosque, and upper columns are not usually open to the public, but you can try your luck with the man with the key. The structure is illuminated from 7pm to 9pm.
Hotel Bliss HOTEL $$ (%2237773; www.blisstirupati.com; nd highway map Reniguta Rd; s/d from 1710/1980; ais) The most luxurious nd highway map place in town with ultracomfortable rooms, professional staff and a glass lift with great views and droning pilgrim elevator music.
Forty kilometres southwest of Vizag is this stunning Buddhist complex (admission free; h9am-6pm), better known by the name of its two hills, Bojjannakonda and Lingalakonda. Used by monks from the 1st to 9th centuries AD (p910), the hills are covered with rock-cut
C Courses Dhamma Vijaya MEDITATION (Vipassana Meditation Centre; nd highway map %08812-225522; www.dhamma.org; Eluru-Chintalapudi Rd) Offers nd highway map intensive 10-day vipassana meditation courses free of charge in lush palm- and cocoa-forested grounds. The centre is 15km from Eluru; call for details.
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