hutchinson river parkway exits Boats depart every month-ish for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Bookings for the 56hour journey

Chandrika Guest House (%9490430989; s/d 1000/1500), 2km from the station, is the most peaceful option with rooms looking out to fields, though it s overpriced. The Hill Resort Mayuri (%958936-249204; cottages from 650; a), near the museum, has cottages with good views. There s also a few uninspiring options around hutchinson river parkway exits the station, otherwise you could try the forest retreat of Jungle Bells (Tyda; cottages from 800; a), 45km from Araku, with cottages tucked away in woods. Book at APTDC. You can sample the local coffee at Araku Valley Coffee House (h9am-9pm), next to the Museum of Habitat.

India Tourism (Government of India; Map p 898; %23261360, 23260770; Netaji Bhavan, Himayathnagar Rd; h9.30am-6pm Mon-Fri, to noon Sat) Very helpful for information on Hyderabad, Andhra Pradesh and beyond.

Boats depart every month-ish for Port Blair in the Andaman Islands. Bookings for the 56hour journey (from 1960) can be made at the Shipping Office (%2565597, 9866073407; Av Bhanoji Row; h9am-5pm Mon-Sat) in the port complex. Bring your passport. hutchinson river parkway exits

kateshwara here, at his home. It s one of India s most visited pilgrimage centres: on average, hutchinson river parkway exits 40,000 pilgrims come each day (the total often exceeds 100,000), and darshan hutchinson river parkway exits (deity-viewing) runs 24/7. Temple staff alone number 12,000, and the efficient Tirumala Tirupathi Devasthanams (TTD; %2277777; www.tirumala.org) brilliantly administers the crowds. As a result, although the throngs can be overwhelming, a sense of order, serenity and ease mostly prevails, and a trip to the Holy Hill can be fulfi lling, hutchinson river parkway exits even if you re not a pilgrim.