Vijayawada is on the main Chenna Kolkata and Chennai Delhi railway lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) runs to Chennai (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily map of western states except Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada Chennai route. Trains galore run to Hyderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC map of western states 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.
6 Mecca Masjid. A4 Transport 7 Osmania General Hospital. A2 13 Afzal Gunj Bus Stop.B2 8 Salar Jung Museum. B2 14 Koti Bus Station. B1 15 Mahatma Gandhi (Imlibun) Bus Eating Station. C1 9 Hotel Shadab. B3 Hotel Suhail HOTEL $ (Map p898; %24610299; www.hotel suhail.in; map of western states Troop Bazaar; s/d/tr from 475/620/900; ai) If all budget hotels were like the Suhail, we d all be much better off. Staff are friendly and on top of it, the rooms are large and quiet, have balconies and constant hot water. It s tucked away on an alley behind the main post offi ce and the Grand Hotel away from the Hyderabad bustle, but it s also unlit at night; some readers find it sketchy.
Salar Jung Museum MUSEUM (Map p900; www.salarjungmuseum.in; Salar Jung Marg; Indian/foreigner 10/150; h10am-5pm Sat- Thu) The huge and varied collection, dating back to the 1st century, was put together by Mir Yusaf Ali Khan (Salar Jung III), the grand vizier of the seventh nizam, Osman Ali Khan (r 1910 49). The 35,000 exhibits from every corner of the world include sculptures, map of western states wood carvings, ivory (including a sadly ironic set of carved elephants), devotional objects, Persian miniature paintings, illuminated manuscripts, weaponry, toys and more than 50,000 books. The impressive nizams map of western states jewellery collection is sometimes on display. Cameras are not allowed. Avoid Sunday, when it s bedlam. From any of the bus stands in the Abids area, take bus 7, which stops at Afzal Gunj bus stop (Map p 900 ) on the north side of the nearby Musi River bridge.
Sankranti (Jan, statewide) This important Telugu festival marks the end of harvest season. Kite-flying abounds, map of western states women decorate their doorsteps with colourful kolams (or rangolis rice-flour designs), and men decorate cattle with bells and fresh horn paint.
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