Legends about the hill itself and the surrounding area appear in the Puranas, and the temple s history may date back 2000 years. The main temple is an atmospheric place, though you ll be pressed between hundreds of devotees when you see it. The inner sanctum itself is dark and magical; it smells of incense, resonates with chanting and may make you religious. There, Venkateshwara sits gloriously on his throne, inspiring bliss and love among his visitors. You ll have a moment to make a wish and then you ll be shoved out again. Don t forget to collect your delicious ladoo (sweet made of fl our, sugar, raisins and nuts) from the counter.
Tirupathi station is well served by express trains, running to Chennai (2nd-class chair/ chair ( 62/206, three hours), Bengaluru (sleeper/3AC/2AC 168/470/628, seven hours), Hyderabad/Secunderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 284/764/1047, 12 hours) and Vijayawada (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The reservation office (%2225850; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, 8am-2pm Sun) is across the street.
Most buses and trains will stop en route at Bhongir, 60km from Hyderabad. It s worth jumping down for a couple of hours to climb the fantastical-looking 12th-century Chalukyan hill fort (admission 3; h9am6pm). Looking like a gargantuan stone egg, the hill is mostly ringed by stairs.
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