interstate 75 exits The Kirandol passenger train ( 20, five hours) leaves Vizag at 6.50am and Araku at 3pm. It s a slow,

The Kirandol passenger train ( 20, five hours) leaves Vizag at 6.50am and Araku at 3pm. It s a slow, spectacular ride; sit on the right-hand side coming out of Vizag for best views. For Jungle Bells, get off at Tyda station, 500m from the resort. Frequent buses ( 58, 4 hours) leave from Araku to Vizag every hour until 7pm.

Hotel Shadab INDIAN $$ (Map p900; High Court Rd, Patthargatti; mains 60250; hnoon-midnight) One meal at Shadab and you ll be forever under its spell. The hopping restaurant is the place to get biryani ( 95 to 200) and, during Ramzan (Ramadan), haleem. It has even mastered veg biryani (!) and hundreds of other veg and non-veg delights (if you try the chocolate