hutchinson river parkway exits 902 ANDHRA PRADESH chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City famil

Nagarjuna Resort HOTEL $ (%08642-242471; r from 750; a) The most convenient place to stay, across the road from the boat launch. It has spacious, slightly shabby rooms with geysers, balconies and good views.

902 ANDHRA PRADESH chicken or pineapple mutton, let us know how it goes). Packed with Old City families and good vibes. Kamat Hotel INDIAN $ (Map p 896 ; SD Rd, Secunderabad; mains 45-75; h7am-10pm) How much do we love Kamat Hotel? Words can t say. Each Kamat is slightly diff erent, but they re all cheap and good. There are two branches on SD Rd; the others are in Saifabad and on Nampally Station Rd (Map p 898 ). Meals (from 36) are reliably delish. Kamat Andhra Meals INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Troop Bazaar; meals from 45; hnoon- 4pm & 7-11pm) Excellent authentic Andhra meals on banana leaves, topped up till you almost faint with pleasure, and fi nished off with a banana. Its sister hutchinson river parkway exits restaurants in the same compound Kamat Jowar Bhakri (Maharashtran), Kamat Restaurant with air-con (North and South Indian) and Kamat Coffee Shop are likewise friendly family joints full of happy diners. No relation to Kamat Hotel. Also recommended: Paradise Persis Restaurant INDIAN $$ (Map p 896 ; cnr SD & MG Rds, Secunderabad; mains 125-245; h11.30am-11pm) Ask any Hyderabadi about biryani, and they ll mention Paradise. Mozamjahi Market MARKET $ (Map p 900 ; cnr Mukarramjahi & Jawaharlal Nehru Rds; h6am-6pm) A great place to buy fruit and vegies (or ice cream), while enjoying the alluring architecture of the stone building, commissioned by the seventh nizam and named after his son. Sagar Papaji Ka Dhaba INDIAN $ (Map p 898 ; Hanuman Tekdi Rd; mains 45-110; hutchinson river parkway exits hnoon-4pm & 7-11pm) Always busy, Papaji s has profoundly delicious veg and non-veg biryanis, curries and tikkas. Watch the : : : : : : : : 6 6 1

Hyderabad has one of the world s largest freestanding stone Buddha statues (Map p 898 ), completed in 1990 after five years of work. However, when the 17.5m-high, 350-tonne monolith was being ferried to its place in the Hussain Sagar, the barge sank. Fortunately, the statue was raised undamaged in 1992 and is now on a plinth in the middle of the lake. It s a magnificent sight when alit at night.

Hyderabad is a city known for its love of good food, and locals take great pride in their city s off erings. Andhra Pradesh s cuisine has two major influences. The Mughals brought tasty biryanis, haleem (pounded, spiced wheat with goat or mutton) and kebabs. The Andhra style is vegetarian and famous for its spiciness.