the 50 states map Vijaya Lodge HOTEL $ (%2501222; fax 2446864; Station Rd; s/d from 150/240) About 100m from the train

Vijaya Lodge HOTEL $ (%2501222; fax 2446864; Station Rd; s/d from 150/240) About 100m from the train station, the Vijaya is well organised with helpful staff, but the rooms are becoming a little dreary.

Most buses and trains will stop en route at Bhongir, 60km from Hyderabad. It s worth jumping down for a couple of hours to climb the fantastical-looking 12th-century Chalukyan hill fort (admission 3; h9am6pm). Looking the 50 states map like a gargantuan stone egg, the hill is mostly ringed by stairs.

Hotel Harsha HOTEL $$ (Map p898; %23201188; www.hotelharsha.net; Public Gardens Rd; s/d incl breakfast from 1600/1800; aW) Rooms don t have tonnes of character, and can be noisy (ask for a rear facing room) but they re bright, have fridges, the furniture is in good taste and the art is a step up from the usual schlock. The overall effect is polished but comfy. The lobby smells like success, with lots of glass and marble. One of the city s best deals.

Vijayawada is a busy, rapidly growing city and an important port at the head of the delta of the mighty Krishna River. It s bustling, but it s also intersected by canals, lined with ghats and ringed by fields of rice and palm. The surrounding area is intensely lush and green.