If you re travelling around Andhra Pradesh during Ramadan (known locally as Ramzan), look out for the clay ovens called bhattis. You ll probably hear them before you see them. Men gather phoenix road map around, taking turns to vigorously pound haleem inside purpose-built structures. Come nightfall, the serious business of eating phoenix road map begins. The taste is worth the wait. In September 2010, this love of the dish was taken a step further, being patented as Hyderabadi haleem ; prohibited to be served under that name unless it meets the strict quality guidelines.
Vizag s well-organised RTC Complex (%2746400) has frequent bus services to Vijayawada (deluxe/Volvo phoenix road map 250/530, eight/seven hours) and, in the afternoon, Hyderabad ( superluxury / Volvo 470/870, 14/12 hours).
Vijayawada is on the main Chenna Kolkata and Chennai Delhi railway phoenix road map lines. The daily Coromandel Express (2841) phoenix road map runs to Chennai phoenix road map (sleeper/3AC/2AC 214/544/732, seven hours) and, the other way, to Kolkata (2842; sleeper/3AC/2AC 395/1054/1440, 20 hours). Speedy Rajdhani (Thursday and Saturday) and Jan Shatabdi (daily except Tuesday) trains also ply the Vijayawada phoenix road map Chennai route. Trains galore run to Hyderabad (sleeper/3AC/2AC 190/478/639, 6 hours) and Tirupathi (sleeper/3AC/2AC 198/502/674, seven hours). The computerised advance-booking offi ce (%enquiry 2577775, reservations 2578955; h8am-8pm Mon-Sat, till 2pm Sun) is in the basement.
Meena Bazar CLOTHING (Map p898; www.meenabazarhyd.co.in; phoenix road map Tilak Rd; h10.30am-8.30pm Mon-Sat) Gorgeous saris, salwar (trouser) suits and fabrics at fixed prices. Also has a branch in Banjara Hills (Map p902).
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